Be yourself. Love yourself. Take care of each other.

Hello, world! Shelly here! Time for another edition of Take Care, a weekly-ish bit of tips and updates to help you be yourself, love yourself, and take care of each other (and yourself!) I’m Shelly of Geek Out of Water.

Since the weather is getting nicer, I'll tackle this question today:

Which is better: chemical or physical sunscreen?

Let's be honest; the best sunscreen is the one you will wear.

There are differences in sunscreens that can affect your preferences, so let's find one that you're most likely to enjoy! Let's get into the sunscreen lingo.

Let's look at some of the pros and cons of physical and chemical sunscreens. I wear either kind, and choose between my favorites for different reasons.

Mineral (Physical) Sunscreens

The two most common ingredients in mineral sunscreens are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. These ingredients are both natural minerals that work by reflecting UV rays away from the skin.

Pros:

• Safer for skin and the environment
• Non-comedogenic (does not clog pores)
• Hypoallergenic (less likely to cause irritation)
• Better for those with heat-activated skin (skin that is more sensitive to the sun when you exercise, sweat, or are in a hot environment - if your skin flushes red easily when you are hot, you might have heat-activated skin)

Cons:

• Can leave a white cast on the skin
• More difficult to rub in
• Needs to be applied more frequently

Chemical (Organic) Sunscreens

Chemical sunscreens use organic molecules to absorb UV rays. These molecules are then converted into heat, which is then released from the skin.

The most common chemical sunscreen ingredients are:

• Avobenzone
• Octinoxate*
• Octocrylene
• Homosalate
• Octisalate
• Mexoryl SX
• Mexoryl XL

Pros:

• Goes on smoothly and absorbs easily
• Less likely to leave a white cast
• Can be applied less frequently

Cons:

• May be absorbed into the skin and bloodstream * For example, Octinoxate may cause hormone disruption once absorbed and is limited to 6% concentration in EU sunscreens, but not limited in the US.
• Some ingredients may be irritating to the skin or more likely to cause irritation or allergic reactions
• Can be harmful to the environment

EU and Korean Sunscreens vs US Sunscreens

You may have heard me swear by my preference of sunscreens produced in the European Union (I pick up a haul every year when I go to Ireland) over those produced in the United States.

The main difference between EU sunscreens and US sunscreens is that EU sunscreens must protect against both UVA and UVB rays, while US sunscreens only need to protect against UVB rays.

UVA rays are the main cause of premature skin aging, while UVB rays cause sunburn. Both UVA and UVB rays can cause skin cancer.

The EU has stricter regulations on sunscreens than the US. In order to be marketed in the EU, a sunscreen must protect against both UVA and UVB rays and must have an SPF of at least 15. In the US, sunscreens only need to protect against UVB rays and can have an SPF as low as 2.

The EU also has a list of banned sunscreen ingredients, while the US does not. One of the banned ingredients in the EU is oxybenzone, which is known to be absorbed into the bloodstream and can cause hormone disruption and is common in US sunscreens.

The United States had a VERY long stretch of zero innovation in the sunscreen arena. Prior to just recently, the last new ingredient approved for sunscreen in the US was avobenzone in 1996. Where were you in 1996? I was still in college. I am now 48. That's decades of US ignorance to the importance of sunscreen.

Finally, in 2022, the US approved an ingredient that has been available in the EU for over 2 decades, since 2000 - Bemotrizinol - commonly marketed as Tinosorb S and Escalol S. Unlike some other organic sunscreen actives, it shows no estrogenic effects in vitro, and is photostable, which means it does not break down when exposed to sunlight. It is non-comedogenic and hypoallergenic and is effective against both UVA and UVB rays. I hope that we see more US-based sunscreens with bemotrizinol soon. I love the Korean Purito sunscreen that uses this active (see my favorites below).

Why do new or better ingredients matter?

Aside from the better protection offered and lesser negative impacts, a lot of these newer sunscreen actives that are available abroad just FEEL better. They're lighter and less greasy feeling on the skin. They wear better under makeup. They wear better over time. Like I said - the best sunscreen is the one you'll actually wear, and many US sunscreens are just not a pleasant experience to wear. If you don't wear it, it's useless.

Why wear mineral vs chemical?

I generally prefer chemical sunscreens under makeup. It can be tough to find mineral sunscreens that don't have a white cast to them (though I do have a few suggestions for that!) I prefer how chemical sunscreens sink into the skin when it comes to applying makeup over them. I tend to have less makeup pilling with chemical sunscreens versus mineral. That said, I am typically choosing European chemical sunscreens with newer sunscreen actives to negate some of the negatives of the common chemical sunscreen ingredients in the US.

If I'm going to be highly exposed to the sun - a beach day or a long day outdoors - I will go for physical sunscreens because I do tend to have heat-activated skin and I don't have a problem with reapplying frequently. If I expect that to be a problem in whatever the situation is that day, I'll pick a chemical sunscreen instead.

My Favorites

Here are some of my favorite sunscreens. Some links are affiliate links which earn me a small commission at no cost to you. I recommend these products whether you use my links or not, but I appreciate your support if you do!

US:

Good Molecules Sheer Mineral SPF 30$12 - Zinc Oxide - one of the most hydrating mineral sunscreens, with minimal white cast - https://go.magik.ly/ml/1rlnt/

La Roche Posay Anthelios Mineral Ultra Light Face SPF 50$37.99 - Titanium Dioxide 6% (sunscreen), Zinc Oxide 5% - very lightweight and wears great under makeup - https://go.magik.ly/ml/1s8l3/

EU: I don't have links for these as they can be hard to get from across the pond without traveling to Europe!

La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMUNE 400 Invisible Fluid SPF50 €21 - Mexoryl 400, one of the few sunscreens that block ultra-long UVA in addition to standard UVA and UVB, wears phenomenally well under makeup, and is very much sweat resistant. It's my favorite of all. While it does have denatured alcohol, it does not dry out my skin and is hypoallergenic and formulated for sensitive skin. Note that denatured alcohol especially in chemical sunscreens serves the important purpose of dissolving the sunscreen actives so they can properly absorb in your skin. It helps make them more effective and is not a filler ingredient in this purpose.

Eucerin Sun Pigment Control Tinted Light SPF50+ €27.99 - a combination of bemotrizinol, avobenzone, benzisothiazolinone, and octinoxate chemical sunscreen actives. I don't like the octinoxate in this one, but it is one of the lower concentration actives in the formula. On the plus side, I can wear this as a light foundation, and it contains Thiamidol to help reduce existing hyperpigmentation and dark spots. This one is great for a quick out-the-door face that saves some makeup steps.

Korean:

Purito Daily Go-To SPF50+ $19.20 - bemotrizinol - After Purito's sunscreen debacle a couple years back, they came back with a fantastic sunscreen that wears great under makeup and has my favorite chemical sunscreen active, bemotrizinol. https://ystyle.co/QC7B

What SPF should I wear?

I personally prefer to wear SPF 30 minimum, and the sweet spot for me is SPF 50. I don't explicitly seek out higher than SPF 50.

An SPF of 50 blocks 98% of UVB rays, while an SPF of 100 blocks 99%. As you get above 50, you increase the risk of irritation as the concentration of actives increases, and it's a matter of diminishing returns. So I stick with SPF 50 and reapply frequently when I am outdoors for any extended length of time.

At the end of the day, the best sunscreen is the one you'll wear! Find your favorite and wear it every single day!

Find me on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@goow

Shop my designs & handmade skin care: https://shopgoow.com

Thanks and remember: be yourself. Love yourself. Take care of each other,

💜 Shelly

Who's Shelly?

I’m a beauty enthusiast, entrepreneur, and professor of media arts and design. I send out emails about once a week on beauty, self-care, and lifestyle with a geeky twist - plus, of course, updates on any tools I’m building for the love of beauty (like my Roll-A-Look eyeshadow color generator and upcoming foundation tools). 

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If you love makeup and skin care and self-care too, this newsletter is made for you! Besides life and work updates, I’ll share science-based tips and easy techniques to help you look and feel your best. Stick around for the fun. 

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