We protect what we love

FRIDAY . 17 . 09 . 21 .

Hello, Hola, Bonjour, Nǐ hǎo, Olá, Zdravstvuyte, Konnichiwa, Guten Tag, Ahlan and Kia ora to our wonderful friends of For Wild Places 👋🏽

Despite the ongoing lockdowns, last week's amazing weather (I can't say much about this week's) coupled with news of the roadmap out of lockdown has lifted the spirits of everyone here at FWP virtual headquarters. We're super, super keen to get out of our 5km zones (or 1 hour time limits) and explore wild places. In the interim, one of FWPs newest team members, Jodi, is taking you to New Zealand (which is convenient, as it'll likely be the first place we're able to travel once borders open).

DOUBTFUL SOUND, NEW ZEALAND SOUTH ISLAND

Despite the name, Doubtful Sound with worth a look 👀

On a recent trip to Fiordland National Park, I was surprised to be greeted by a wanted poster boasting a hefty reward of $10,000. It might be the remote wild southwest but, even here, in this lush rainforest paradise, signs of an epic struggle are apparent. And I'll give you a clue. It’s not because of the missing bird in the mug shot.

The South Island Kokako - thought to be extinct, until a possible 2018 sighting

Having already walked the Milford track, this time around, I chose Doubtful Sound. The only way to get there is by boat. Which is also the best way to experience the silent, towering and majestic presence of the surrounding Fiord.

Take a good raincoat though, because you want it to rain. Stunning as the landscape is on a bright sunny day, the rain transforms the steep slopes of lush rainforest into dozens of cascading waterfalls. In fact, there is so much rain here, 6 to 8m annually, that a layer of freshwater sits atop the salty sea.

Panorama of Doubtful Sound, taken from the commuter boat

Immersed in the reverberation of birdsong and surrounded by tumbling waterfalls, Doubtful Sound feels like a place untouched by civilisation. A true lasting wilderness, but even here, the changing climate is harming native wildlife. At the time I visited in 2019, Fiordland was experiencing a mega mast event. Here mast seasons are becoming more common, and that's a problem. 

A mast season is where plants flower en masse and are more productive than usual. This poses additional challenges for native wildlife. More fruit and seed provides a bumper crop for native birds, lizards, bats and insects. But, predator populations also increase. Mice, rats and stout numbers explode.

As the Mast season wanes, predators look for food elsewhere. New Zealand birds, which nest on the ground, become easy targets. As do the chicks and eggs. Most native bird populations, already in danger, are now critical with no defence against the onslaught. Kiwi, kākāpō, kea, weka and other bird populations are disappearing.

A birds eye view of Doubtful Sound, South Island New Zealand

When I first visited this area, close encounters with the native wildlife were frequent and awe-inspiring. Now there is only the silence, interrupted at intervals by tantalising birdsong, before falling silent again.

Kepler Track

If you prefer having feet on dry land, the less well known Kepler Track might be just the thing. A self-guided 60km trail through spectacular alpine scenery, the track winds secretively through magical mossy forests and up to panoramic mountain views. Rest a moment beside a pristine river oasis, and you might just spot the rare Whio (blue duck) surfing the river rapids. You may even get lucky and have a close encounter with the cheeky kea. Just don’t leave your stuff unattended. These mountain parrots have been known to try ripping apart backpacks (and even cars) searching for food.

So there you have it folks. A tiny taste of the southern part of the South Island in New Zealand. Whether it is land or sea that resonates, this unique New Zealand wilderness is not just worth a visit but active preservation.

AUSTRALIAN SNOW GUMS

An icon at risk

Skinning up the slopes of Warkwoolowler/Mt Bogong,

amongst the struggling snow gums

 Australia’s iconic snow gums are facing an uncertain future due increasing frequency and intensity of bushfires as a result of a warmer climate. Significant wildfire events in the Victorian High Country in 1998, 2002/3, 2006/7, 2013 and 2019/20, have devastated huge areas of Snow Gum forests, including changes to forest structure and localised collapse of Snow Gum woodlands is now being observed. Although snow gums are resilient to fire, they need 20-30 years between major fire events to recuperate. With 5 major fire events in the last two decades, there just isn’t enough time for them to regenerate.

In a recent ski trip to Mount Bogong, FWP team member, Hilary McAllister, said “climate change has clearly made its way into the backcountry, and its effects on the snow gums is frightening.”

Friends of the Earth Melbourne, a social and environmental justice organisation, have released a report which included immediate key actions that the Victorian Government needs to take to protect snow gums, which are such an iconic aspect of the Australian alpine landscape.

We encourage you to support advocacy groups such as Protect Our Winters and the Victorian National Parks Association who do awesome work to protect our alpine areas.

THE ACCR IS TAKING SANTOS LTD TO COURT

A landmark court case against alleged corporate greenwashing

On behalf of the Australasian Center for Corporate Responsibility (ACCR), the Environmental Defenders Office has filed a Federal Court case against Santos Ltd - an oil and gas giant. The ACCR alleges that Santos has engaged in misleading and deceptive conduct, challenging claims that natural gas provides ‘clean energy’ and that the company has a credible plan to achieve net zero emissions by 2040.

Demonstrators protest against Santos' plans for an 850-well coal steam gas field near Narrabri, NSW.

Image source: The Guardian

Santos Ltd is one of Australia’s largest gas companies, and the biggest domestic gas supplier in the country. Major Australian-based projects include oil and gas extraction off the coast of Western Australia, as well as in South Australia and Queensland, and is also a major player in coal seam gas.

This makes Santos one of Australia’s biggest greenhouse gas emitters, with recorded 36.3 million tonnes (more than the top two biggest coal-fired power stations in the country combined) of direct and downstream emissions from the company’s operations in 2019-2020 FY alone.

Why is this case so important?

It’s about holding gas companies like Santos accountable for the claims they make about their product and future viability in a carbon-constrained world. Santos’ misleading information about natural gas and their transition to a lower carbon economy can obstruct an effective and timely response to the climate crisis.

This case also demonstrates the importance of collective activism. This court case, the above pictured demonstrations and FWP’s Pilliga Ultra all seek to demand social and environmental justice. It’s a great reminder that you might just be one person, but you’re part of a broader movement with a unique stance and voice that deserves to be heard.

You can read more about this via an ACCR media release.

💚 🌱 💚

Thank you for taking the time for wild places. Stay safe and connected.

Jodi, Elanor & the For Wild Places crew.

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We acknowledge the the First Nations people who have been custodians of land, waters and culture for tens of thousands of years. We pay respects to First Nations Elders past, present and emerging.

This newsletter was written on the stolen lands of Wurundjeri Woi-wurrung, and compiled on the stolen lands of the Gadigal people of the Eora nation.

To these people, we pay our respects.

Always was, always will be.

By For Wild Places

We're a group of adventurers who love to

protect wild places we run on